Review of Maison Rabih Kayrouz Spring 2022 Fashion Show
Rigorous Sensuality
By Philippe Pourhashemi
Ever since launching his fashion house Maison Rabih Kayrouz in 2008, Lebanese designer Rabih Kayrouz has established himself as a master of effortless elegance, fusing Haute Couture refinement with sportswear ease. This season, he found inspiration within classic workwear, denim and utility staples, broadening his range and enriching his repertoire. In a press preview at his Left Bank atelier, he was keen on emphasizing the idea of a woman on the move, a free spirit hanging on to her independence.
I was thinking about a woman who wanted to travel and escape, but I didn’t want her clothes to be fussy or constricting. Every piece I create is versatile enough to fit different lifestyles and types of women. I actually don’t like fashion as such, but I am passionate about making beautifully-cut clothes, which will stand the test of time. The idea is to evolve my own personal style season after season, instead of radically changing with every new collection.”
– Rabih Kayrouz, Creative Director of Maison Rabih Kayrouz
In a post-lockdown era where designers seem to have rediscovered the body, with several collections verging on tacky, you can count on Kayrouz to emancipate women while maintaining their sense of elegance. Many shapes were generous and flattering, from loosely fitted jumpsuits and easy shirtdresses to ruffled blouses and dramatic evening capes. Sharply tailored pantsuits looked effortless and fresh, while cape-inspired outerwear adorned with luminous crystals and breezy gowns made out of bright lightweight taffeta would work perfectly on holiday or in a more formal setting. Still, the designer’s take on sensuality was pure, focused and structured, avoiding unnecessary effects to underline clear volumes.
My process as a designer is to let the fabrics guide me and tell me what to do. The material is the first thing we touch when we discover clothes and it’s important for me that there’s a sensuality straight away, but I don’t like garments that are tight or obvious. I like women to have a sense of mystery, too.”
– Rabih Kayrouz, Creative Director of Maison Rabih Kayrouz
Seeing some of the collection pieces modestly showcased on his atelier tables reminded you of the patience and perseverance independent designers must arm themselves with in order to stay relevant. Rabih Kayrouz is a talented couturier, but his dreams are relatable and rooted in reality. In a post-pandemic world, pragmatic elegance is without a doubt something that we will all be craving for.
