It’s still true that menswear moves much slower than women’s fashion, but the menswear space has seen something of a reckoning in recent seasons, with designers stepping up to explore technical innovations as well as conceptual reconsiderations of what masculinity actually means, and how it ought to be expressed through clothing. This is especially true of the young or independent brands in our Standout category, who are using the flexibility and accessibility of Men’s Fashion Week to carve out their own distinct space within today’s sartorial conversation.
The season saw a number of subversive riffs on formal professionalism – from Juun.J, Jordanluca, and Sean Suen – while MSGM and Wales Bonner explored themes close to their hearts, whether it was Milan’s public transit or the overlooked pioneers of Black academia.
Led by masterful designer Junichi Abe, Kolor remains one of the most slept-on brands in the game – especially as it is one of the most consistent and creative presences on the Paris Men’s circuit. This season, Abe focused in his penchant for hybridity and layering, deconstructing menswear archetypes from the worlds of workwear, militaria, and prep to deliver another cohesive yet expansive expression of fashion post-modernism and take home our top spot.
Here are The Impression’s Top 10 fashion shows of the Fall 2024 Menswear season as selected by our Editor-in-Chief, Kenneth Richard.