Review of Victoria Beckham Fall 2023 Fashion Show
Somewhere Between Sensuality and Surrealism, Victoria Beckham is Carving her Niche
By Angela Baidoo
Victoria Beckhams gear shift, that was presented last season with a first showing on the Paris schedule, has been yielding some very favourable results, within the fashion community at least. Leading the charge on the ‘New Sensuality’, when all about her were talking about sex last season, for fall 2023 the designer is further exploring the needs of her numerous #VBMuses’s.
Beckham does daytime particularly well, and this season we saw a further exploration of her skewed mash-up of textures that just seem to work, at a time when impaction is in
Clothing for both day and night – untethered by shackles of tradition – gave options that took on a new perspective on dressing up. Her colour-blocked, multi-textured evening gowns opened the show, and their eclectic nature will mean they will be a red-carpet pick for those most daring. Equally as impressive were the knitted co-ords, which played with geometric shapes as side panels that were reminiscent of the space-age designs of Pierre Cardin’s ‘Circles’ in the 1960s. Her standout looks were of course the dresses, delicate slips in satin and chiffon, took their inspiration from the jazz age, as bias cuts gave an ultra-feminine fluidity with sleeves, necklines, and backs updated with folds, ruching, and even structured hoops that were sewn into hems to create a tension between fixed and flow.
But what drew those iPhones to attention (a sure sign that a look it’s about to be the one, simply by the number of times it is posted and shared via social media) were the craftily clever casual looks. An oversized funnel-neck sweater was styled with a denim midi skirt that was worn backwards (a small nod to Margiela, but more on that later), with godet inserts exaggerating the hem. As well as coated denim wide leg jeans, whose waist, rather than cinched in with a belt, featured giant gathers which were stitched in place to create an almost surreal effect. The simplicity of these ensembles said volumes, and is the broadening of the new look Victoria Beckham brand many within the retail world will be happy to see included in the collection.
Very rarely does a customer get the chance to discover the inner workings of the garments they purchase, although on some level there is a vague understanding of what goes into, say, the making of a Savile Row suit or a wedding gown, as both require various layers of underpinnings to get the fit just right. But in Beckham’s fall 2023 collection there were several tailored blazers which reflected on the work that goes into the discipline of becoming a seasoned tailor. A dove grey blazer dress left a lapel unfinished, revealing the internals of its padding of horsehair canvas lining, as well as contrast stitches, which appeared decorative, but in fact outlined various forms and pattern pieces that create the correct shape of any tailored garment worth its salt.
The likes of this kind of inside-out thinking is a welcome directional narrative for the brand, especially since it’s a style of design more commonly seen over at Maison Margiela, and John Galliano’s delicate deconstruction of the silhouette. But here with Victoria Beckhams grown-up take on glamour, it offers a much-needed juxtaposition that will give it an edge over its competitors.
Denim was anything but casual fare for daytime activities, in Beckhams hands waistbands and hems were exaggerated with innovative details that could compete with any of today’s emerging brands who are pushing the boundaries of the category.
As with all trends, some are easy to spot – take the proliferation of furry footwear that has been seen across ladylike pumps and strappy sandals, or the skirt suit, which has been having a mini-revival since the New York. But the start of Beckhams show hit upon a very subtle audio trend, when the familiar lyrics of “I can’t Stand the Rain” (both the Missy Elliott and Tina Turner versions were played), accompanied by a soundtrack of rain floated down the runway. For those paying attention, this was a song which was also heard on the Milan runway of emerging brand Andreadamo, whose models also walked through a literal rain shower as part of the set design. In this music choice is Beckham trying to tell us something on a subliminal level, possibly of not wanting to look to the past (and the lost love of the brand that was), or simply using the mechanism of white noise in the form of rain sounds to cut-out the noise, so we can join her in this new journey? Either way, with this new direction, that seems both self-assured and confident of who it is speaking too as a brand, there can only be brighter days ahead, without a raincloud in sight.