Training Day
Review of Rick Owens Spring 2027 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
Today’s Rick Owens spring collection, titled ‘Stone,’ was partly in reference to the collective paralysis ordinary citizens are experiencing due to the daily reality of ‘processing menace’ as the notes called it. They went on to describe how in the face of teetering on the brink of domination by malevolent forces some have chosen to arm themselves, face the fight, turn away, retreat into a ‘Hypernormalised’ online world, train, or cease trying altogether and ‘turn to stone.’
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Built-in AC, Adidas and Owens, Bulbous Silhouettes
Owens has never been one to turn away, always ready to embrace alternative realities as a self-confessed outsider. He is also a dedicated to a healthy lifestyle regime that involves daily gym sessions, meaning he falls firmly into the ‘train’ camp. Exercise and training – in whatever capacity – having been proven to improve mental health and shift our outlook led the designer to partner with Adidas on a collection that integrated the German brands technical sportswear M.O. into the Rick Owens universe.
In what is sure to be an instant hit for both Adidas and Owens – judging from the crowds of devoted disciples who worship at the altar of the brand every show season – the collaboration brought a level of instant commerciality to todays collection that can sometimes require a few days to absorb each silhouette and the messaging behind the season. Not so for next spring, as the designer is imploring us to reject apathy, even in the face of overwhelming opposition and the concerted effort to instil it in us, through the act of doomscrolling a never-ending negative news cycle.
The collaboration will consist of a technical sneaker with a cleated sole and sock that cuffs around the ankle so it can be worn up or down. And the tracksuit, which is being given a starring role this season, as both Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Junya Watanabe have given it pride of place within their collections. Recognising its value as a core menswear silhouette nearly every look was styled with a slimline Adidas x Rick Owens track pant, wide leg or runners short and came not only in technical jersey but suede and leather. Sportswear tropes were also reworked as longline and sleeveless hoodies were extended to capes complete with trains to align with the brands visual narrative.
In the midst of the scorching temperatures, where questions have been asked about the conditions models are working within – wearing head-to-toe suede or heavy leather biker jackets, even if only for 20 minutes feels like a concern that will need to be addressed come next season – a solution was proposed by Owens when he discovered the Adidas Climacool system. Even in intense weather the system is designed to keep the wearer’s body cool and dry via its ability to ventilate. A technical feature that was taken to the extreme with interior fans built into the nylon suits that created a portable air conditioning unit (something that fellow Parisian schedule-mate Anrealage demonstrated for their spring 2025 collection) experiments with a bulbous silhouette brought new meaning to the phrase Bubble trouser. If this new technology can be tested at a luxury level it brings a sense of what’s possible for the next phase of climate-adaptive clothing.
THE WRAP UP
Remaining true to his design language of black-on-black, a love with leather, and the beauty of the spectacle that involves committing to a show in the Palais de Tokyo courtyard, even if that should mean changing the official Paris fashion week slot to avoid the noon-day sun, Owens has found a way to offer a solution to remain true to himself without sacrificing the design of each look, with clothes that seem to be cooled from the inside out with his collaboration with Adidas. A relationship spanning more than a decade, more designers may need to seek out sportswear giants or climate scientists to help them combat the very real issue of how to allow the show go on when the temperature goes up.
