Easing Out of the Extremes
Review of Hed Mayner Spring 2027 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
Hed Mayner is one of the most consistent menswear designers on the Paris calendar, and credit where it is due he has remained true to his DNA at a time when the tide has been turning back towards an ultra skinny silhouette.
This wasn’t a moment to rest on the way he had always been working, as designers get serious about what matters – when it comes to what they are choosing to show. Mayner regarded this spring 2027 collection as ‘a cleansing of the silhouette’ and an opportunity re-establish confidence in his house codes.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Cleaning codes, Amplifying DNA
Hed Mayner the brand, speaks in a ‘Roomy Vocabulary’ that has never been just an exercise in technically grading up classic tailoring silhouettes. The designer creates a sculptural look through the use of fabrics that are embedded with a crisper finish so they don’t simply pool around the body, but envelope it. An example of this is the technical cotton fashioned into a blouson that cocooned the wearer, giving a sense of volume while remaining lightweight and functional.
Today’s press release described spring 2027 as a collection that is pure ‘Minimalism in shape [and] maximalism in touch.’ An excellent definition for anyone new to the brand. What draws you into the designers world are the stripped down shapes that look almost organic. This season applied in weather appropriate cottons and jutes.
Surfaces focused on the weathered and decadently dishevelled, and the embrace of imperfection will be appreciated by men attempting to reconfigure their daily wardrobe decisions to face into furnace-like temperatures. Texture became a key part of the designer’s language with crackled paint, glossy coatings, transparencies, matte leather, and chalk coatings giving fabrics a lived-in quality. Bringing new sensations to the exterior of his clothing.
Stating it plainly in print “what was once extreme is now easy.” Oversized fits have become an industry standard, as fashion moves from one trending shape to another, yet it was designers such as Mayner who were part of a co-hort that brought the look to the forefront in a formal way, as it is accepted that larger-than-life shapes having been a mainstay in the world of street and casual wear for decades. Now, no longer a topic of debate for being unconventional (since being adopted by even the most commercial of brands), the designer is seeking new ways to draw attention. And today, he looked to “the clean and the crafty, the earthy and the ethereal crashing together” as a way to convince anyone in doubt, that he was still very much ‘feeling confident’ in the Hed Mayner brand.
THE WRAP UP
There comes a point in every designer’s career when their biggest challenge is deciding where to take their vision next. Hed Mayner, having helped normalise oversized tailoring, is seeking to cleanse his silhouette as the designer is no longer operating as an outlier. Spring 2027 demonstrated that he understands this need to recalibrate, by choosing to evolve through maximising on a surface level, and in doing so the designer is opening up a new chapter for the future of his brand.
