Contemporary Minimalism, Craft Heritage
Review of Bevza Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Last season saw Svitlana Bevza make an uncharacteristically vibrant use of color as she referenced bright orange marigolds a symbol of resilience and regrowth for her home country of Ukraine, which is still suffering the attacks of an imperialist war. Now, for Fall 2024, she trades orange for gold, returning to her signature soulful minimalism while beautifully weaving in shine and continuing to spotlight her country’s handcraft heritage.
The designer has shared with us before that each of her collections and individual garments begin with the simple shape of the square. This geometric origin is evident in the simple linearity of her pieces, but it is also made to take on an impressive fluidity and sense of the organic. Garment categories, too, achieve a deft balance between abstract contemporary minimalism and historical references; we can see thoughtfully refreshed takes on enduring practical pieces like aprons and tunics.
Bevza is also known for her use of white, and it is certainly present here, but the designer let herself expand a bit and incorporate new hues, most notably navy and gold. The latter appears as both cleverly deployed hardware details and shimmering swathes of fabric, infusing the brand’s character with a sense of sumptuousness and power we haven’t seen from them before.
THE BUZZWORDS
Contemporary minimalism, craft heritage.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #38
Though it may not be the most wearable in an everyday context, this woven wool tunic coat that closed the show is a beautiful tribute to Ukraine’s craft and farming heritage and a fitting finale for the collection’s synthesis of contemporary minimalism and craft heritage.
THE DIRECTION
Bevza debuted leather handbags last season, and this collection offered a quietly confident evolution of this new category. Angular shapes drew on the brand’s signature spikelet motif (a reference to Ukraine’s major historical role as a grain-producer) while hardware continued the collection’s use of gold.
THE QUOTE
The choice of the Ukrainian Institute of America as the venue for the runway holds deep significance. Exactly two years ago, on February 14th, 2022, Bevza hosted a New York show just before the invasion. This deliberate choice of venue carries profound symbolism, aligning with the shared mission of both the brand and the institute.”
– Bevza
THE WRAP UP
Delivering her strongest collection yet, Svitlana Bevza continues to be a sensitive yet powerful voice for beauty even in response to war and violence. By celebrating her home’s history of gorgeous craftsmanship while carrying this legacy forward into the contemporary fashion moment, she sends an empowering message about art’s crucial connection to the its people.
