BY PHILIPPE POURHASHEMI
A Luminous Winter
Approaching winter in a hopeful and luminous way, the show underlined individuality, crafting a gentle -yet strong- silhouette
The life we have isn’t always a carefree one and I wanted to have this feeling of serenity within the collection. It is hard enough to fight for ourselves, and just be who we are as individuals. So you have to stand straight and be faithful to what you stand for. The idea was therefore to present different tribes on the runway, but everyone was united.– Haider Ackermann (backstage speaking with The Impression)
This sense of unity gave Ackermann’s clothes a unique presence and powerful grace, whether it be on his male or female models. The gorgeous winter whites defining the opening looks set the tone for a graceful and refined collection, which focused on tailoring and streamlined styles.
One of the most alluring aspects of the show was light -and unexpected color. This was not about darkness, but a longing for warmth and intimacy. Bold accents of midnight blue, chartreuse green and lime added sensuality and sophistication to the simplest garments. The designer was in fact reworking his idea of a timeless wardrobe, with coats that were long and narrow, while jackets were cropped and double-breasted, worn with nonchalantly rolled-up pants. This feeling of ease and simplicity pretty much defined the collection as a whole, letting the clothes, fabrications and simple shapes speak for themselves.
The designer borrowed inspiring and thoughtful words from writer Dorothy Parker, one of his favorite American artists. Printed on shirts, jackets and pants, they expressed the need for freedom, desire, love, and the strength of the individual as an entity. It almost felt as though genders had blurred during the show and everyone had become part of Haider’s special tribe, a nomadic group of beautifully dressed and poetically inclined souls, ready for whatever comes next. Ackermann is one of the few designers who can express our inner soul and spirit through the intricacy of his work, and his sensitive approach towards clothing remains one of his major talents.