Photo | IMAXtree

Jonathan Cohen

Fall 2020 Fashion Show

6.9
The Impression Review Score

BY ROXANNE ROBINSON

La Vie En Rose
Exploring the beautiful flower, Jonathan Cohen expands his point of reference.

Jonathan Cohen has a rosy outlook for Fall 2020. In this collection, the designer took a departure from his Mexican-heritage roots that inspired previous collections and looked towards the classic rose. The designer made an analogy of a rose starting out as a bud and blossoming into a beautiful flower as the journey one goes through while discovering one’s true self. It was an exercise apparent for any designer building and developing a young collection.

A rose theme set – vines crawling throughout the New Museum gallery with petals and chandeliers alike laying in piles strewn across the floor – set the tone for a group of rose-themed looks. Embroidered roses on a denim-effect fabric became an Abba-worthy pantsuit and wrap dress. Roses, in blue on a black open back sweater or bright red pom-pom styles on a grey style worn with a side sash plaid yellow dress, looked scrumptious and exotic at the same time. Other rose details showed up as a detail on a collar or embroidered on the back of a jean jacket or dress and all-over on a brocade.

Cohen’s brand collection manifesto is born from a desire to create luxury products in the most responsible way possible. Which means upcycling and fabric conservation are at the heart of his work. Exhibit A; a signature patchwork skirt; quilted patches and lots of recycled yarn. This collection demonstrated this in a scarf woven from fabric scraps and recycled yarn fringe dress which veered a bit to the crafty side. 

Cohen is still exploring luxury in a sustainable context. He is a pioneer of Econyl, a 100 percent regenerated nylon that constituted a large portion of the collection, an applaudable choice. There may be a few thorns along the way as this designer’s environmentally responsible efforts come into bloom. But it’s a bud that’s worth the watch.


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